Scattering of coastal-trapped waves by irregularities in coastline and topography

Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1988A study is conducted of the scattering of freely-propagating subinertial frequency coastal-trapped waves (CTWS) by large variations in coastline and topography using analytical and numerical techniques. Particular attention is paid to the role of stratification because, as shown, the introduction of even modest stratification can eliminate backscattered free-waves with large wavenumbers which occur, theoretically, in a barotropic ocean. An analytical solution is presented for the scattering of barotropic waves incident upon a discontinuity in shelf width. Discussion of solutions relying on backscattered free-waves is avoided by considering only the range of parameters over which energy transmission is nearly 100%. The solution shows there is a substantial transfer of energy to modes other than that of the incident wave. The transmitted mode most readily excited is that which has the across-shelf structure most closely coinciding with that of the incident wave. For a widening shelf, energy is therefore readily transferred to higher modes. The resultant presence of multiple modes produces a strong modulation in flow intensity and phase progression downstream of the scattering region which may affect the interpretation of shelf wave observations. A non-dispersive shelf wave 'pulse' of limited a10ngshelf extent scatters into a train of similarly shaped waves of all allowable modes, each propagating at its own free-wave speed. To overcome limitations of the analytical study a numerical model which accomodates arbitrary density stratification, bathymetry, and coastline, is employed. Numerical simulations are conducted of the scattering of CTWs by a set of topographic and coastline variations which are representative of many continental shelves. The strength of the scattering observed is found to be proportional to a topographic warp factor which estimates the severity of the topographic irregularities. The scattering is amplified by density stratification. A comparison of the effects of widening and narrowing topographies shows that the gross scattering effects of 'reciprocal' topographies are qnite similar. Within the scattering region itself, the strengths of the scattered-wave-induced currents exhibit substantial variation over short spatial scales. On both widening and narrowiag shelves, there is generally a marked intensification of the flow within the scattering region, and significant differences in the directions of the currents at points separated by a few tens of kilometers indicate the occurence of rapid variations ia phase. On narrowing shelves, the influence of the scattering can extend upstream into the region of uniform topography even when no freely-propagating backscattered waves exist. A simulation is condncted of CTW scattering at a site on the East Coast of Australia where observations suggest the presence of scattered freely-propagating CTWs. The success of the model simulation in reproducing features of observations confirms that realistic shelf geometries can scatter significant levels of CTW energy, and that the scattered waves can have an appreciable signal in current-meter observations made on the continental shelf. This demonstrates that along irregular coastlines it is necessary to account for the possibility that CTW scattering processes filay be in effect if oceanographic observations are to be interpreted correctly.This research was supported by the National Science Foundation under grants OCE8417769 and OCE85-21837, and by the WHOI Education Program

Modes of mesoscale sea surface height and temperature variability in the East Australian

[1] Mesoscale variability where the East Australian Current (EAC) separates from the coast is studied using sea surface temperature and surface velocity streamfunction observed by satellite and a regional numerical model. The mean circulation simulated by the model (the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS)) is compared to a high-resolution regional climatology, and the realism of the simulated mesoscale variability is tested by comparison to statistical analyses of the satellite data. Both ROMS and data show spectral peaks in the mesoscale energy band at periods between 90 and 180 days. Complex Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis identifies two significant modes of mesoscale variability in the data; an Eddy Mode, for which the variability propagates southwestward along the coast, and a Wave Mode, for which phase propagation is predominantly onshore. The regional model open boundary conditions include only annual and semiannual harmonics of variability so remote mesoscale forcing is absent. The Eddy Mode is represented well in the model indicating this aspect of the circulation results from local instabilities of the flow and that its underlying dynamical process is simulated well. While the observed and modeled Wave Modes have some similarities, their differences suggest the model is deficient in representing westward propagation of mesoscale period variability in the region. Whatever the source of this energy, the orthogonality property of the EOF analysis indicates the Wave Mode does not interact significantly with eddy processes in the EAC separation

Interannual variability of the surface summertime eastward jet in the South China Sea

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2014. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 119 (2014): 7205–7228, doi:10.1002/2014JC010206.The summertime eastward jet (SEJ) located around 12°N, 110°E–113°E, as the offshore extension of the Vietnam coastal current, is an important feature of the South China Sea (SCS) surface circulation in boreal summer. Analysis of satellite-derived sea level and sea surface wind data during 1992–2012 reveals pronounced interannual variations in its surface strength (SSEJ) and latitudinal position (YSEJ). In most of these years, the JAS (July, August, and September)-mean SSEJ fluctuates between 0.17 and 0.55 m s−1, while YSEJ shifts between 10.7°N and 14.3°N. These variations of the SEJ are predominantly contributed from the geostrophic current component that is linked to a meridional dipole pattern of sea level variations. This sea level dipole pattern is primarily induced by local wind changes within the SCS associated with the El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO). Enhanced (weakened) southwest monsoon at the developing (decaying) stage of an El Niño event causes a stronger (weaker) SEJ located south (north) of its mean position. Remote wind forcing from the tropical Pacific can also affect the sea level in the SCS via energy transmission through the Philippine archipelago, but its effect on the SEJ is small. The impact of the oceanic internal variability, such as eddy-current interaction, is assessed using an ocean general circulation model (OGCM). Such impact can lead to considerable year-to-year changes of sea level and the SEJ, equivalent to ∼20% of the observed variation. This implies the complexity and prediction difficulty of the upper ocean circulation in this region.This research was supported by the ONR grant N00014-12-1-03-23 and the NSF CAREER Award 0847605.2015-04-2

Advancing coastal ocean modelling, analysis, and prediction for the US Integrated Ocean Observing System

Author Posting. © The Author(s), 2017. This is the author's version of the work. It is posted here by permission of Taylor & Francis for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Operational Oceanography 10 (2017): 115-126, doi:10.1080/1755876X.2017.1322026.This paper outlines strategies that would advance coastal ocean modeling, analysis and prediction as a complement to the observing and data management activities of the coastal components of the U.S. Integrated Ocean Observing System (IOOS®) and the Global Ocean Observing System (GOOS). The views presented are the consensus of a group of U.S. based researchers with a cross-section of coastal oceanography and ocean modeling expertise and community representation drawn from Regional and U.S. Federal partners in IOOS. Priorities for research and development are suggested that would enhance the value of IOOS observations through model-based synthesis, deliver better model-based information products, and assist the design, evaluation and operation of the observing system itself. The proposed priorities are: model coupling, data assimilation, nearshore processes, cyberinfrastructure and model skill assessment, modeling for observing system design, evaluation and operation, ensemble prediction, and fast predictors. Approaches are suggested to accomplish substantial progress in a 3-8 year timeframe. In addition, the group proposes steps to promote collaboration between research and operations groups in Regional Associations, U.S. Federal Agencies, and the international ocean research community in general that would foster coordination on scientific and technical issues, and strengthen federal-academic partnerships benefiting IOOS stakeholders and end users.2018-05-2

How inert, perturbing, or interacting are cryogenic matrices? A combined spectroscopic (infrared, electronic, and x-ray absorption) and DFT investigation of matrix-isolated Iron, Cobalt, Nickel, and Zinc Dibromides

The interactions of FeBr2, CoBr2, NiBr2 and ZnBr2 with Ne, Ar, Kr, Xe, CH4 and N2 matrices have been investigated using IR, electronic absorption and X-ray absorption spectroscopies, as well as DFT calculations. ZnBr2 is linear in all the matrices. NiBr2 is linear in all but N2 matrices where it is severely bent. For FeBr2 and CoBr2 there is a more gradual change, with evidence of non-linearity in Xe and CH4 matrices as well as N2. In the N2 matrices the presence of νNN modes blue shifted from the “free” N2 values indicates the presence of physisorbed species, and the magnitude of the blue-shift correlates with the shift in the ν3 mode of the metal dibromide. In the case of NiCl2 and NiBr2 chemisorbed species are formed after photolysis, but only if deposition takes place below 10 K. There was no evidence for chemisorbed species for NiF2 and FeBr2 and in the case of CoBr2 the evidence was not strong

Barotropic tides on the southeast New England shelf : a view from a hybrid data assimilative modeling approach

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2006. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 111 (2006): C08002, doi:10.1029/2005JC003254.A high-resolution hybrid data assimilative (DA) modeling system is used to study barotropic tides and tidal dynamics on the southeast New England shelf. In situ observations include tidal harmonics of 5 major tidal constituents [M2, S2, N2, O1, and K1] analyzed from coastal sea level and bottom pressure gauges. The DA system consists of both forward and inverse models. The former is the three-dimensional, finite difference, nonlinear Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS). The latter is a three-dimensional linearized, frequency domain, finite element model TRUXTON. The DA system assimilates in situ observations via the inversion for the barotropic tidal open boundary conditions (OBCs). Model skill is evaluated by comparing the misfits between the observed and modeled tidal harmonics. The assimilation scheme is found effective and efficient in correcting the tidal OBCs, which in turn improve ROMS tidal solutions. Up to 50% decreases of model/data misfits are achieved after inverse data assimilation. Co-amplitude and co-phase maps and tidal current ellipses for each of 5 tidal constituents are generated, revealing complex tidal variability in this transition region between the tidally amplified Gulf of Maine in the northeast and the tidally much less energetic Middle Atlantic Bight in the southwest. Detailed examinations on the residual circulation, energetics, and momentum balances of the M2 tide reveal the key roles of the unique bottom bathymetry of Nantucket Shoals and the complex coastal geometry in affecting the regional tidal dynamics.This work was supported by WHOI Coastal Ocean Institute Research Award. J.W. acknowledges support of the Office of Naval Research

Characterizing wave- and current- induced bottom shear stress : U.S. middle Atlantic continental shelf

This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Continental Shelf Research 52 (2013): 73-86, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2012.10.012.Waves and currents create bottom shear stress, a force at the seabed that influences sediment texture distribution, micro-topography, habitat, and anthropogenic use. This paper presents a methodology for assessing the magnitude, variability, and driving mechanisms of bottom stress and resultant sediment mobility on regional scales using numerical model output. The analysis was applied to the Middle Atlantic Bight (MAB), off the U.S. East Coast, and identified a tidally-dominated shallow region with relatively high stress southeast of Massachusetts over Nantucket Shoals, where sediment mobility thresholds are exceeded over 50% of the time; a coastal band extending offshore to about 30 m water depth dominated by waves, where mobility occurs more than 20% of the time; and a quiescent low stress region southeast of Long Island, approximately coincident with an area of fine-grained sediments called the “Mud Patch”. The regional high in stress and mobility over Nantucket Shoals supports the hypothesis that fine grain sediment winnowed away in this region maintains the Mud Patch to the southwest. The analysis identified waves as the driving mechanism for stress throughout most of the MAB, excluding Nantucket Shoals and sheltered coastal bays where tides dominate; however, the relative dominance of low-frequency events varied regionally, and increased southward toward Cape Hatteras. The correlation between wave stress and local wind stress was lowest in the central MAB, indicating a relatively high contribution of swell to bottom stress in this area, rather than locally generated waves. Accurate prediction of the wave energy spectrum was critical to produce good estimates of bottom shear stress, which was sensitive to energy in the long period waves.P.S. Dalyander was supported by the U.S. Geological Survey Mendenhall Research Fellowship Program

Autonomous and Lagrangian ocean observations for Atlantic tropical cyclone studies and forecasts

Author Posting. © The Oceanography Society, 2017. This article is posted here by permission of The Oceanography Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Oceanography 30, no. 2 (2017): 92–103, doi:10.5670/oceanog.2017.227.The tropical Atlantic basin is one of seven global regions where tropical cyclones (TCs) commonly originate, intensify, and affect highly populated coastal areas. Under appropriate atmospheric conditions, TC intensification can be linked to upper-ocean properties. Errors in Atlantic TC intensification forecasts have not been significantly reduced during the last 25 years. The combined use of in situ and satellite observations, particularly of temperature and salinity ahead of TCs, has the potential to improve the representation of the ocean, more accurately initialize hurricane intensity forecast models, and identify areas where TCs may intensify. However, a sustained in situ ocean observing system in the tropical North Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea dedicated to measuring subsurface temperature, salinity, and density fields in support of TC intensity studies and forecasts has yet to be designed and implemented. Autonomous and Lagrangian platforms and sensors offer cost-effective opportunities to accomplish this objective. Here, we highlight recent efforts to use autonomous platforms and sensors, including surface drifters, profiling floats, underwater gliders, and dropsondes, to better understand air-sea processes during high-wind events, particularly those geared toward improving hurricane intensity forecasts. Real-time data availability is key for assimilation into numerical weather forecast models.The NOAA/AOML component of this work was originally funded by the Disaster Relief Appropriations Act of 2013, also known as the Sandy Supplemental, and is currently funded through NOAA research grant NA14OAR4830103 by AOML and CARICOOS, as well as NOAA’s Integrated Ocean Observing System (IOOS). The TEMPESTS component of this work is supported by NOAA through the Cooperative Institute for the North Atlantic Region (NA13OAR4830233) with additional analysis support from the WHOI Summer Student Fellowship Program, Nortek Student Equipment Grant, and the Rutgers University Teledyne Webb Graduate Student Fellowship Program. The drifter component of this work is funded through NOAA grant NA15OAR4320071(11.432) in support of the Global Drifter Program

Climatological mean circulation at the New England shelf break

Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2011. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 41 (2011): 1874–1893, doi:10.1175/2011JPO4604.1.A two-dimensional cross-shelf model of the New England continental shelf and slope is used to investigate the mean cross-shelf and vertical circulation at the shelf break and their seasonal variation. The model temperature and salinity fields are nudged toward climatology. Annual and seasonal mean wind stresses are applied on the surface in separate equilibrium simulations. The along-shelf pressure gradient force associated with the along-shelf sea level tilt is tuned to match the modeled and observed depth-averaged along-shelf velocity. Steady-state model solutions show strong seasonal variation in along-shelf and cross-shelf velocity, with the strongest along-shelf jet and interior onshore flow in winter, consistent with observations. Along-shelf sea level tilt associated with the tuned along-shelf pressure gradient increases shoreward because of decreasing water depth. The along-shelf sea level tilt varies seasonally with the wind and is the strongest in winter and weakest in summer. A persistent upwelling is generated at the shelf break with a maximum strength of 2 m day−1 at 50-m depth in winter. The modeled shelfbreak upwelling differs from the traditional view in that most of the upwelled water is from the upper continental slope instead of from the shelf in the form of a detached bottom boundary layer.WGZ was supported by the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution postdoctoral scholarship program. GGGandDJMwere supported byONRGrant N-00014- 06-1-0739

Towards an integrated observation and modeling system in the New York Bight using variational methods. Part I : 4DVAR data assimilation

Author Posting. © The Author(s), 2010. This is the author's version of the work. It is posted here by permission of Elsevier B.V. for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Ocean Modelling 35 (2010): 119-133, doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2010.08.003.Four-dimensional Variational data assimilation (4DVAR) in the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) is used to produce a best-estimate analysis of ocean circulation in the New York Bight during spring 2006 by assimilating observations collected by a variety of instruments during an intensive field program. An incremental approach is applied in an overlapped cycling system with 3-day data assimilation window to adjust model initial conditions. The model-observation mismatch for all observed variables is reduced substantially. Comparisons between model forecast and independent observations show improved forecast skill for about 15 days for temperature and salinity, and 2 to 3 days for velocity. Tests assimilating only certain subsets of the data indicate that assimilating satellite sea surface temperature improves the forecast of surface and subsurface temperature but worsens the salinity forecast. Assimilating in situ temperature and salinity from gliders improves the salinity forecast but has little effect on temperature. Assimilating HF-radar surface current data improves the velocity forecast by 1-2 days yet worsens the forecast of subsurface temperature. During some time periods the convergence for velocity is poor as a result of the data assimilation system being unable to reduce errors in the applied winds because surface forcing is not among the control variables. This study demonstrates the capability of 4DVAR data assimilation system to reduce model-observation mismatch and improve forecasts in the coastal ocean, and highlights the value of accurate meteorological forcing.This work was funded by National Science Foundation grant OCE-0238957